A FESTIVE COTTAGE CHRISTMAS WITH AMARYLLIS | How to plant & care for the most beautiful winter blossoms

Amaryllis, Amaryllises (I wonder what the plural is called...?) are like Marmite – Some love these opulent and dramatic flowers, others find them too pompous and overpowering.

Up until a couple of years ago, I was Team 2. But then I discovered a few unusual varieties that absolutely had to be part of my wintery Christmas season.

This was taken at the wonderful Susie's home @casa_Longo.

And, as to be expected in the Stiller household, a handful of plants grew into 40 last year, spread all over our house. I once again want to apologise publicly to my four boys that my 'indoor plantation' took away practically all of their living/lounging space – and all just so I could try out what it's like to live alongside these beauties.

My conclusion: It's exciting! Just like my usual morning walk through the spring, summer and autumn garden, I could now take a (warm!) winter morning walk around the house.

And let me tell you: Amaryllis are definitely more grateful and easier than most houseplants. My green thumb seems to fall off abruptly when it comes to indoor plants... But here's my bold claim – anyone can 'do' Amaryllis!

Indoor Highlights in the Winter.

Up to 60 centimetres tall (although there are even larger varieties!) and with impressive, strong flowers, Amaryllis are a highlight in any Christmas decoration. Just be aware that each one has its own pace of growth (I've had some that blossomed after two weeks, others only at the end of winter).

"Apple Blossom" brought early Spring into my house.

Although Amaryllises are tropical plants native to South America, growing them inside over the cold winter days is a doddle. They're so easy to handle because they already bring everything they require with them. All they need from you is light, soil (and not even that is absolutely necessary; see below), a water supply and a warm place to grow.

They come in such a wide range of colours, there is guaranteed to be something for everyone. Whether a deep, Christmassy dark red like "Benfica" or "Grand Diva", timelessly elegant white like "Christmas Gift" or "White Queen" or cheerful red and white stripes like "Doublet" – they are an eye-catcher. Looking for something a little more delicate and perhaps a hint of spring in your home? Especially in January and February, when the longing for brighter skies and longer days is particularly strong, varieties like "Apple Blossom", with her white-pink flowers, bring a glimpse of warmer days to come. You can also find yellow, orange, cream, apricot and green(ish) varieties such as "Rilona" or "Luna". And "Elvas" is very special too.

Important to know:

The larger the bulb, the more flowers you get. Ideally, she will develop several stems, which then gives you even more flowers.

An exceptional look! "Elvas".

PLANTING AND CARING FOR AMARYLLIS

I plant my amaryllis in pots at the end of October to mid-November (but earlier or later is also fine!). To prolong the ‘flower extravaganza’, I like to stagger planting every ten days. That way, I always have pretty blossoms around the house.

If you use a pot, it should be at least twice as wide and tall as the diameter of the bulb. At least that's the ideal scenario – my 40 bulbs had to make do with any pot I could find, no matter how small. And somehow, that worked, too.

You can also place them in vases, but make sure that only the roots touch the water, not the bulb itself. Change the water regularly so it doesn't start to rot. This method works well, but the bulb will be quite exhausted and look a little shrivelled after the flowering period.

If you want to keep them healthy and strong for a number of years, I recommend planting them in soil:

Fill a pot about halfway with high-quality potting compost, insert the bulb and then add just a little (!) soil on top. No more than half of the bulb should be covered with soil. Press the soil down and water once – then use water very, very sparingly.

It's particularly important to avoid waterlogging, so make sure the water can drain off.

The bulb should never be watered directly; it's best to water through a saucer.

You can check every few days – the soil should be slightly moist but not too wet. Otherwise, you run the risk of your bulb rotting.

When the stem and leaves appear, you can water regularly two to three times a week. Ideal temperatures are between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius (64 to 68 Fahrenheit), so normal room temperature should be fine.

The plants should be in a bright position but not in direct sunlight. The latter shortens their flowering time.

"White Queen" – Radiant and timeless.

If you do not want to plant the bulbs immediately, store them in a cool, dark room at around 10 to 15 degrees Celsius (50 to 60 Fahrenheit). The bulb should not be sealed airtight.

Another tip from me:

When they're in full bloom, Amaryllises can easily topple or even break under their own weight, so it's a good idea to give them some support early on. I learned that the hard way – I found a broken terracotta pot and scattered soil on a few occasions where the long stem had leaned out that little bit too far. And the cat was innocent!

So now, just wait and see. Snuggle up and look forward to your blossoms... Oh yes, and Christmas, too, of course...

WHAT HAPPENS AFTER THEY BLOOM?

Do not throw away the faded Amaryllis bulb – she's a perennial! After a rest period, they will flower again next year. You can cut off the wilted flower (this is not a ‘must’), but be sure to let the leaves continue to grow.

Place the plant in a bright spot and continue to water regularly. Provide it with liquid flower fertiliser every 14 days to once a month so that the bulb can recharge its batteries. She might reward you with more flowers.

The flowering period is over by April at the latest, when (unlike tulips) they do not go into a dormant phase but enter the growth phase.

As soon as the frost is over, you can put them out in partial shade over the summer. Water regularly until the end of July.

Eight to twelve weeks (approx. August), before you want her to blossom again in all her splendour, take the bulb out of the soil. You can also leave her in the pot, but I find it easier to store the bulb without soil. Don't cut off the leaves! If she's developed 'babies', you can remove and replant them. You'll have to be a little patient, though – they'll take a couple of years until they flower.

Store them in a dark, cool place for eight weeks. A cellar is ideal. The temperature should not exceed 10 to15 degrees Celsius (50 to 60 Fahrenheit), as they need to ‘hibernate’ in order to sprout fully again. Then it's same procedure as in the previous year: Pot the bulb up and wait for her to bloom.

Have you gotten a taste for Amaryllis too?

The ones you can find in my shop now have been 'pre-treated' in the right temperatures which means that, provided you plant them soon, they should blossom in time for Christmas... (or so Mrs Stiller is hoping 😆). Otherwise, you can enjoy them throughout Advent or during gloomy January.

Did you try them? I'd love to hear your experiences – when you planted them, when they showed the first flowers andandand.

"Doublet" is especially charming.

All images: Janina Laszlo